Although most motorcycle owners aren’t likely to put as much thought into choosing their battery as they would a set of saddle bags or an exhaust system, failing to choose the right one can lead to a host of unwanted consequences. At best, a failing, or insufficiently rated battery can leave you with no blinkers or headlamps, or without enough power to keep your fuel injection running if your bike is equipped with an ECU. At its worst though, a serious battery problem can potentially lead to an internal short, resulting in stator or wiring damage.
Not surprisingly, the key to avoiding most battery problems is to make sure that you’ve chosen the right battery. That’s where the benefits of knowing precisely what type of battery your bike has, how to interpret its specs, and which specs are the most important come in. It’s knowledge that gives you an advantage when it’s time for a replacement.
Getting to Know the Basics about Your Motorcycle Battery
Let’s be honest: although there used to be a time when motorcycles only needed batteries to power accessories, that’s no longer the case. As everything from ignition modules to fuel pumps is now activated almost exclusively by electronic circuitry, the need for reliable batteries for motorcycle systems has never been greater. There’s a world of difference between today’s replacement batteries and the OE-supplied models from only a decade ago; and starting with advancements in their chemistry, even the expectations of modern battery performance have evolved.
There are 3 main types of replacement quad, ATV, and motorcycle batteries on the market.
- Conventional flooded batteries. With their lead-acid cores, these old-school, wet-cell batteries have been the standard portable power source for over a century; and with few changes from their original design, their simplicity and affordability belies the fact that they also have the shortest lifespan, require the most maintenance, and are known to emit corrosive gases when recharging.
- Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries. AGM motorbike batteries are the leak-proof, maintenance-free equivalents of conventional batteries which, in spite of costing somewhat more than conventional, generally offer longer life, along with quicker recharging, slower discharging, and greater resistance to vibration and temperature extremes.
- Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries. Not only are modern LiFePO4 batteries the lightest, longest lasting, and arguably safest batteries on the market, they also offer faster charging, slower discharging, and an overall charge efficiency that’s twice that of conventional flooded batteries.
Regardless of the type of battery your bike has, the fact is that almost every motorcycle battery needs to be replaced after 5 years, especially in hotter climates like Australia where batteries will naturally dry out faster, and discharge quicker if not charging properly. Ideally, you should always consult your bike’s owner’s manual before you buy motorcycle batteries; but when the manual isn’t available, knowing your battery’s specs is the best way to prevent purchasing one that isn’t up to the job.
Battery Codes Put All Your Battery Specs at Your Fingertips
When it comes to motorbike battery performance specs, everything from their output rating to terminal positioning has to be considered. A battery that doesn’t fit properly can be as harmful to your electrical system as one that’s unable to produce the amperage needed to power your ignition, or is prone to dangerous thermal runaway if overcharged. That’s why you need to be able to identify your battery’s specs from its codes.
Modern, 9-digit battery type codes are based on the ETN (European Type Number) system, and are compiled to denote a full range of technical specs.
- 1st position. Battery voltage, either 6V or 12V.
- 2nd and 3rd positions. Nominal battery capacity, rated in amps, Ah.
- 4th, 5th, and 6th positions. Battery reference numbers, including polarity and terminal types, along with cold cranking performance, endurance, and vibration levels.
- 7th, 8th, and 9th digits. Cold cranking amperage (CCA), rated either EN1 (7.5V for 10 seconds) or EN2 (6.0V for 133 seconds).
Make no mistake: dismissing, or ignoring the specs spelled out by either your owner’s manual or your battery’s supplier can be problematic. Despite their long-life, maintenance-free characteristics, LiFePO4 motorcycle batteries for sale simply aren’t as suitable for bikes with older wiring as their conventional flooded counterparts. The same flooded batteries, however, lack the no-spill durability of an AGM battery – an especially important trait if you ride motocross, a quad or ATV, or an adventure bike.
Beyond the specs that are spelled out in battery codes, and concerns over battery cost and physical ruggedness, there’s one parameter that requires more attention than the others: amperage. Everything from the range of temperatures you’re accustomed to riding in, to the number of powered accessories you’ve added to your bike will all have an impact on your amount of power draw, so it’s a value that you can’t afford to overlook.
Understanding the Importance of Keeping Your Eyes On the Amps
Your battery’s output amperage is its most important attribute; that’s because everything from how quickly it starts to how well it runs under full throttle is determined by output amperage. Amperage demands and subsequent alternator outputs can vary dramatically though, and your battery is tasked with balancing the two.
No matter if you’re shopping for motorcycle batteries online or in person, you have to be sure that the following attributes are sufficient for both your bike, as well as your type of riding.
- Amp-hours (Ah). Ah is the number of hours that a battery can produce a constant 1 amp current – a crucial capacity if you’ve installed aftermarket extras like lights, heaters, or navigation electronics.
- Cold-cranking amps (CCA). CCA measures the number of continuous amps that a battery can produce for 30 seconds at 7.2V at a temperature of 0°F (-18°C) – a critical measurement if you expect to leave your bike outside during cold weather.
- Reserve capacity (RC). RC is the length of time that a fully charged 12V battery can run before dropping below 10.5V – an important parameter to know if you do a lot of riding through remote locations, and where an alternator failure could potentially leave you stranded.
The fact is, bigger isn’t always better. Installing a motorcycle battery with a higher amperage than your bike is rated for can quickly damage your electrical system, so it’s important to know what the system is rated for.
The Final Word
At the end of the day, even if your battery is out of sight, it’s simply not a component that you can afford to take your eyes off of. A battery failure isn’t likely to have catastrophic consequences, but it can still leave you in an unwanted on-, as well as off-road predicament. That’s why you want to follow your battery manufacturer’s maintenance schedule as recommended, and you want to be aware of which battery specs are most important in case you need to make an unplanned replacement.
By familiarizing yourself with your battery’s specs, you can always be sure that you’re getting the right batteries for motorcycle systems. It’s knowledge that’s going to keep you on the highway and help protect your bike.
